After several months of rest and recovery my hand has finally healed itself and is strong enough to be climbed on.
It has been almost 3 months since I climbed, and these past few days of climbing have felt terrific. You know sometimes a rest is well needed to heal your hands and body, but that first time back is a God send.
Even just climbing indoors after such a long break feels incredible. It reminds me why I love climbing so much.
Ok so I am back to rock climbing, but how am I coming back in after such a long break.
I am mostly doing a lot of endurance training on top rope and long boulder traverses.
These two things will build up my endurance back to what it was quickly and allow me to let my fingers and joints stay safe.
I will be avoiding any powerful bouldering for at least a month and spend most of my time on sport routes.
Climb strong climb safe
Ryan
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March 5, 2007 18:24 - Rock Climbing at Obed
Hey everyone I just wanted to let you know that I will be heading to Obed tommorrow morning. I am going on a trip for the next 5 days or so. Since I won't be around a computer I will not be posting anything til sunday. I will give you all an update of my trip once I return.
Have a great week
Ryan
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March 6, 2007 09:31 - Mammut Bouldering Championship
The Mammut Bouldering Championship has begun. Last weekend was the 'Gravity Brawl' up in Jersey where there was $5,000 in cash up for grab and 1,000's more in prizes.
Here are the results from the comp:
Men's
1. Paul Robinson
2. Daniel Woods
3. Vasya Vorotnikov
Women
1. Lizzie Asher
2. Kate Reese
3. Sasha DiGiulian
The next Mammut Bouldering Championship is in August in sweet Salt Lake City.
Ryan
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March 11, 2007 12:11 - Climbing at Beautiful Obed
It was our first day at Obed and what a beautiful day it was. We woke up pretty early and it was cold, about 25 degrees or so. So to say the least I wasn't really excited to be climbing in this type of weather, but my desire to climb on real rock again would certainly prevail. And later that day we were blessed with a high in the 60's and sunny.
Ok now the climbing.
I just came off one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever done, Spawn 10c/d.
Spawn starts on some good flat holds and you work up a beautiful finger crack to make the second clip. This is where the fun begins, it now starts an overhanging endurance session. As you continue up you work your way through some crazy drop knees, stemming, sidepulls, underclings, and sloping jugs. You can tell that this climb was just meant to be climbed. The moves flow from one to the next and the line is just so beautiful.
I finally make it to the shuts after 10 or so bolts and it is like a dream. I look over my shoulder at the incredible view of the other cliff lines, the Obed Scenic River and it's cascading rapids, and the natural beauty of the trees and mountains.
The draws are clipped the rope taut I take a breathe, smile and with a look at everything around me I just wonder how anyone cannot believe in a higher power.
This single route was worth my whole trip.
Stay tuned for a full write up of my Obed experience.
Ryan
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March 12, 2007 08:35 - Obed Yeah or Neah?
The Obed Scenic River and climbing area are located just outside of Wartburg, Tennessee about an hour or so from Chattanooga.
Now for me that is about a 7 to almost 8 hour drive, but is it worth it?
Well Obed is by far one of my favorite sport climbing destinations in the Southeast, so yea it is worth it. Why?
Let me break it down for you here: for one the Obed has beautiful roof and overhanging sandstone routes (my favorite). Just check out this picture of Lilly Bluff, where there are some classic roof climbs from 5.11b/c - 5.13b.
Not to mention the beautiful atmosphere with the scenic river (which is great for a swim). Be careful while swimming though this past weekend the water was frigid, but definitely woke you up :-)
They have some great camping over at Del's place, where you will definitely find other climbers on the weekends.
Ok so far so good. Sounds like obed is home to some great sport climbing. Yes this is true, but there is one issue if you can't climb at least solid 5.10 don't bother going. You see there are very few routes that are graded below a 10 and it isn't possible to set up a top rope anywhere without leading a climb first. So that is my one problem with Obed it is not a good place for beginning climbers or climbers who are uncomfortable leading 5.10 or higher.
However, if you can climb 10 to hard 12 or higher you are going to be in heaven.
Here is a picture of me on Clyde and Mega Dude a 5.11b/c that has a nice technical face with some big and powerful moves at the end.
If you are ever in the area be sure to check this climbing destination out. The best guide book is the Dixie Cragger for Tennessee.
Ryan
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March 13, 2007 09:18 - Recent Hard Sends
Here are some of the recent hard sends by Ethan Pringle and Dave Graham.
Ethan Pringle repeated Fred Nicole's classic boulder problem in Hueco, Esperanza, 8B+.
David Graham has repeated Esclatamasters, 9a, at Perles, Spain. This was Dave's 6th "9a-or-harder" send.
Ryan
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March 14, 2007 14:00 - Classic Climbs
Last week up at the Obed I realized something, not something really profound but nonetheless it is something.
So as we were climbing a bunch of routes I realized that every time I climb a route I want it to be great. Not just my climbing but the actual route, the rock, the moves, everything.
I hate it when I jump on a climbing and the start is 5.12 and then there are 4 bolts of 10 and then the anchors. It is just stupid, in my opinion it is like a short boulder problem and then nothing.
This is why I love Classic climbs. One star is ok, but two and three stars now that is where it is at.
So what did I focus on climbing at Obed?
You guessed it classic climbs and lots of them. The grade didn't matter in fact I climbed routes from 5.7 to 5.12, but all of them where great. You know why? Because the moves were so good.
When you are on a classic route you can tell that this baby was just meant to be climbed. And when you are on that kind of climb there isn't much that can top that.
Ryan
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March 15, 2007 11:09 - Specimen DVD
Last night I finally had some time to set aside and watch the Specimen DVD with some friends of mine. After seeing the trailer many months ago, I was very excited for the release of this DVD.
To be honest though I was a little disappointed by the Specimen DVD so let me explain...
Specimen is not so much about climbing in the Rocklands as it is about Cedar Wright on his journey to better understand the artform of bouldering and his quest to climb V10.
Now there is nothing wrong with that, but I was just expecting something a little bit different.
Putting that aside here are my pros and cons of the movie.
Pros
Beautiful scenery
Some great insight from some world class climbers
Some really beautiful bouldering lines and a lot of highballs with some big falls
Cons
Too much noise (while the climbers are climbing you can hear every move they make on the rock) I think they used a lot of microphones.
A lot of back and forth shots while climbing. Some climbs you don't even see the full climb (not a fan of that)
Trailer was kinda of misleading
In my opinion too much dialogue
Those are my pros and cons of Specimen. Overall I would say that I liked the DVD, but my friends were not big fans. I think my favorite part of it was watching Fred Nicole climb, he is just incredible. I wish there would have been more of him on the DVD.
If you want to see some great climbing, gain some interesting insight from top climbers, and watch Cedar Wright on his journey to understand bouldering and his quest for V10 this dvd is for you. You can watch the trailer and pick the dvd up here. However, if you are looking for a DVD with just some bad ass climbing you should check out the Dosage Videos at Rock Climbing For Life dvds.
Ryan
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March 16, 2007 10:24 - Kentucky Breaking News
Kentucky Breaking News
Sending The Business in Red River Gorge, KY (03/12/2007)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
As of Mid-February 2007 almost $16,000 had been collected towards the annual mortgage payment for the RRGCC owned Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) in Lee County, Kentucky. With the annual payment of $29,393 due on July 15, the RRGCC is continuing to ramp up its efforts to secure this purchase (For donation info see: www.rrgcc.org/membership.php.
The PMRP, with over 700-acres of land, is home to well over 300 routes with new lines being discovered and developed weekly. At the end of 2006, the first 5.14c in Red River Gorge was established when Mike Doyle redpointed Lucifer at the Purgatory area of the PMRP.
Equally important, the US Forest Service has stepped up the pace of the Red River Gorge Limits of Acceptable Change (LAC) workshops. Currently on Step 6 of the nine-step process, participation by local climbers is key to maintaining climbing access on Federally owned land in the Gorge. Now meeting more than once a month, workshop participants are presently working to “identify alternative opportunity zone allocations.” At the heart of these meetings is an effort to find a solution that works for all stakeholders, the main options being: 1) emphasis on resource protection; 2) balance between resource protection and recreation; 3) emphasis on recreation and tourism; and 4) no action.
Finally the RRGCC has scheduled two Adopt-A-Crag Day events for 2007. The first event will be held in conjunction with the Red River Reunion being held at Miguel’s Pizza & Rock Climbing in Slade, KY on April 21, 2007. In keeping with the spirit of Earth Day, this Adopt-A-Crag Day will have a Gorge-wide Trash Clean-up and Scavenging Contest. Contestants will present their most interesting pieces of trash to be judged by the crowd that evening at Miguel’s.
Also, this year the 3rd Annual John Bronaugh & Alex Yeakley Adopt-A-Crag Day will be held on August 4, 2007 at the PMRP. This event is devoted to developing new routes and supporting trail development. Held since 2005, this day honors the legacy of the late John Bronaugh and the passion for climbing that he shared with his late son Alex Yeakley.
Source: http://www.accessfund.org/regions/news/KY
If you are not already a member join the Access Fund today.
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March 19, 2007 11:24 - Torrent Falls Being Purchased
Not too long ago I made a post about Torrent Falls being closed to the public and my thoughts on it. Well I just found out that Torrent Falls is being purchased.
The sale is pending final approval, but Bob Matheny has purchased Torrent Falls with the assistance of Matt and Amy Tackett. Mark Meyers the past owner will continue to live at Torrent with his family. As of right now access will remain as it is right now (closed to the public). However, details are being worked out and will be announced at a later date.
This is really exciting as it might mean that this wonderful climbing area is not lost. Hopefully everything will work with the sale and some day soon we all be able to climb at Torrent again.
Ryan
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March 27, 2007 13:51 - Ken We Will Never Forget You
This past weekend I went to Foster Falls Tennessee to climb for a few days. I will be updating you all on my trip over the next few days.
First I would like to honor a friend and climbing partner of mine Ken Gray. This past weekend Ken was with us at Foster Falls and had an unexpected heart attack and past away. This has been a hard time for many of us at the Tallahassee rock gym as Ken has been a part of our lives for quite some time.
Ken was the nicest and most kind man that you had ever met and we are going to miss him very much. What he brought to the climbing gym and the lives of those who knew him is irreplaceable.
I send my deepest condolences to his wife and family in this time.
Ken we will never forget you and how you affected our lives.
Ryan
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March 29, 2007 16:29 - My First Multi-Pitch Climb
Not too long ago I went up to Foster Falls to go climbing for the weekend. Although it was supposed to be pretty warm the desire to climb completely outweighed the heat.
Besides when you live in Florida climbing outside can be rare so if it is sunny and 80's we just deal with it.
I was really excited about this trip because it was my chance to do my first multi-pitch climb. It is kinda funny I had never really thought about doing a multi-pitch climb but earlier in the week I watched a video of Alex Huber free climbing in Yosemite. I guess it was the aestheitcs of the climb or his fluid movement that inspired me to climb my first multi-pitch route. You can check the video out here.
That being said my partner Mike and I grabbed our Dixie Cragger and check out what Foster Falls had to offer us in ways of two or more pitch routes. I am happy to say that we found a beautiful route called Half Man Half Beast. The first pitch being a **5.10c and the second pitch being a ***5.11.
After getting stuck in Atlanta due to a huge accident we finally got to Foster Falls around 12:30pm and grabbed our packs and hiked in. All I could think about was getting on this climb. We warmed up on a couple classics climbs of Foster Falls Narcissism and Ankle's Away and begin our long hike to the base of Half Man Half Beast.
After a good bit of searching we finally came across the route. I give it a glance, tied in real quick and threw on my shoes basically while I was running up the route. I was so excited to be on my first multi-pitch climb and was so pumped that it had 2 and 3 stars. Lately I have only been climbing routes with stars because I hate jumping on a route and having it be to put it bluntly crappy.
The first pitch consisted of some really beautiful technical face climbing. I was very impressed with the moves and how much they flowed from one to the next. After running out the last 18 feet or so I made it to the ledge, mantle and clipped the anchors. Belaying my partner up to the ledge we take a second to gaze at the beautiful surroundings and do a little housekeeping with the broom we found on the ledge.
I chalked up and embarked on pitch two. The climbing was very sustained and pumpy with some really technical moves that allowed for scary clipping. At one point I was about 8 feet above a bolt leaning off a 3/4 pad sidepull with diamond size left foot hoping that my foot didn't pop while clipping. The climb continued up a technical face to a left facing dihedral that allowed for some fantastic stemming.
Setting up to belay my partner up I knew this one climb was worth the trip. The view was incredible the rock beautiful and tranquility priceless. Once Mike got up to me we took a few pictures.
All in all I would recommend this climb to everyone who does multi-pitch climbing. If you can climb solid 11 this is a great route to get on. There is third pitch if you are adventurous, it is however only protected by one bolt for about 40 feet though.
Climb on
Ryan
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