Foster Falls is definitely one of the top sport cragging destinations in the Southeast. It has beautiful technical and pumpy sport routes from slab, face, steep, and roof climbing.
You can check our guide to Foster Falls here. It covers my favorite routes, best spots to eat, camping inforamtion, directions, and other useful information.
Of all the climbs that we did that weekend I was most excited about sending a project of mine, Ethnic Cleansing **5.12c.
Ethnic Cleansing is in the right bunker and features some powerful bouldery moves.
You start ou on a jug and work up through some crimps to the first bolt, you break left and then up to a long jug rail. The rail feels solid but a little wierd because it is like a horizontal flake. From the rail you clip a perma draw and jack your feet up to reach a crimp out right. Hand foot matching on the rail you reach out left to a good hold and work your way up to a ledge on positive crimps and flat jugs. Once you get to the ledge you work into a right and left hand undercling and clip the next bolt. Here is where the fun begins.
Now with a right hand undercling you reach for a left hand sloper on the roof. You weight your hands by sticking your butt out and in one motion your drop the right and dyno for a jug above your left hand. You need to get your hand kinda deep into the slotted jug because it is rounded at the front. Once you hit the jug you match and then throw a heal in there as well. Right hand up to a break in the roof, and make your next clip. Left hand up to a gaston kinda good hold and you use a massive drop knee to reach up and right to a really good sidepull. Cutting your feet you use a foot out right and cam your knee and arm together to make for a bomber arm bar. As you do this your throw for the last hold which is a jug and clip the anchors.
This route almost goes like three boulder problems, but totally rocks and is worth doing.
Ryan
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April 2, 2007 13:38 - Results from the Bouldering World Cup Round 1
This past weekend the first round of the Bouldering World Cup took place in Erlangen, Germany. Here are the top 15 finishes in bothe the Men and Women divisions.
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April 3, 2007 11:30 - The AAC Presents Award for Outstanding Mountaineering Achievement
The American Alpine Club presented the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award to alpinist Carlos Buhler. This outstanding mountaineering award was presented at the club's annual meeting and Mountain Fest in Bend, Oregon.
During his 37-year climbing career, Buhler has climbed major routes on Everest, Huascaran Sur, Ama Dablam, University Peak, Changabang, Sepu Kangri, and many more.
For more information on Carlos Buhler visit his website.
Sources: American Alpine Club and carlosbuhler.com
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April 4, 2007 14:27 - Rock Climbing For Life Needs Your Help!
That's right folks we here at Rock Climbing For Life need your help!
Why?
We are in the process of creating some swag and are looking for some help with the design. As of right now we are looking for designs for a T-shirt and for a sticker.
Would you like to help? If so, please create your design and then contact us.
The person who comes up with the best design will win a special rock climbing prize.
Time to get creative
Ryan
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April 5, 2007 12:50 - Increasing your Pull Strength by 20%
Today I was catching up on a few things before I head out of town and go up to Horsepens 40 for the weekend.
I decided to catch up on some reading and found myself reading one of Eric Horst's training posts. He was talking about increasing your pull up and lock off strength by 20% in 10 weeks.
How? Simply by doing weighted pull ups three days a week. Sounds simple enough right.
Well after reading his article I have decided to give it a shot starting Monday.
Here is what I am going to be doing.
First figure out what my max pull is for just my bodyweight. After that figure out what my 20% increase would be.
Now to the pull ups.
Weeks 1-4 I will be doing pull ups with a 10 pound weight belt/pack. 3 days a week at the end of my climbing session I will be doing 5 sets of max pull ups with a 2-3 minute break in between each set.
20 pounds for weeks 5-8 and 30 pounds for weeks 9 and 10. After that Eric suggests that we take 5 days off and test our pull up strength.
If you weigh less than 150 pounds you can use half the weight I am going to use.
Does anyone else want to take this challenge with me? You can comment below.
Ryan
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April 8, 2007 17:37 - Witness the Fitness Repeated
The legend of bouldering Fred Nicole out of Switzerland has repeated Sharma's Witness the Fitness. Sharma put this 40 ft beast of a roof problem up in the Ozarks back in the spring of 2005.
Nicole went out to the Ozarks last fall to work the route but had to come back in December due to the humid conditions.
Fred Nicole is not commenting on the grade, but is saying it is the hardest bouldering line he has done of that style.
Source: Gripped volume 9 issue 2
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April 9, 2007 19:38 - HP 40 Last Weekend
This past weekend I went to Horsepens 40 with some friends of mine. We all had a great time and were really excited that it actually snowed on Friday night.
I wasn't able to climb on much due to a sprained wrist, but found a nice problem that didn't hurt my wrist at all. Here are some pictures of me on The Kiss V7.
Ryan
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April 10, 2007 10:32 - More Climbing Pictures from HP 40
Here are some of my favorite climbing pictures from this past weekend. These photos were all taken by Aubrey Wingo.
This is Thomas Charignon on Fun Dip a nice highball at HP 40.
Matt Mcgoogan working Mariachi a V5 in the Ten Pins area.
Mike Stanley working a sweet V6 way out in the woods at Horsepens.
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April 11, 2007 18:30 - The 5th Annual Palouse Climbing Festival April 13-15
The 5th Annual Palouse Climbing Festival April 13-15 at the University of Idaho
All events are open to spectators and participation by general public, and students. Here is a tenative schedule:
April 13 7pm Free Slide show by Micah Dash “Big Walls Alpine Style” Uof I Student Recreation Center, MAC court
April 14 8-9am Registration for Open category, $25 includes tee shirt
9-11am Registration Intermediate, Recreational, and Youth categories, $25 includes tee shirt
9-11am Qualifiers round for Open category men’s & women’s. Qualifiers advance to finals round.
11-1pm Intermediate round men’s and women’s
1-2pm Free BBQ Moscow Parks and Recreation
2-4pm Recreational and Youth round men’s and women’s
4-6pm Finals round open category men’s and women’s
6pm Awards ceremony
7:30pm Free Slide show by Katie Brown Uof I Student Recreation Center, MAC court Red Bull after-event Party with Live Band “Animal Maniac” Location TBA
April 15 11am Boulder Clinic with Katie Brown, cost $3 at Climbing Center
Boulder Competition Head Route Setter: Matt Segal Registration: Day of event only 8-11am Red point style Top finishers in open qualifiers round will advance to open finals round.
Slide show presentations All slide show presentations are free for participants and general public to enjoy.
General information Free tent camping is available in Ghormley Park next door to the Student Recreation Center and Climbing Facility. All tents must be moved daily to assure healthy growth of grass. Restrooms will be open and available.
Location Driving Directions to University of Idaho Student Recreation Center We are located in the University of Idaho, Student Recreation Center (SRC) just off Highway 8 (Moscow / Pullman Highway), 1000 Paradise Creek St. (See map)
From the West (Pullman): Follow Highway 8, Turn right on Line St., the Student Recreation Center is the first building to your right.
From the South (Hwy. 95): Stay on 95 into Moscow, turn left on Third St. (Third St. becomes Hwy 8 at the railroad crossing). Take a left onto Line St., the SRC is the first building to your right.
From the North (Hwy. 95): Stay on 95 into Moscow, Turn right on Third St., as you approach the first railroad crossing the road veers right (it turns into Hwy. 8) take the next left onto Line St., the SRC is the first building to your right.
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April 13, 2007 12:33 - Multi-Pitch Videos
A few weeks ago I wrote in and told you all about my first mult-pitch experience at Foster Falls.
Well here are two videos of my partner and I on at the top of the first and second pitch.
These videos definitely have some great views.
First pitch
View from the top of the Multi-pitch climb
I hope that you enjoy them
Be sure to check out our new climbing destinations section and you can see the Foster Falls section here.
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April 14, 2007 12:15 - Indian Creek Photos
I just had my friend Gabe Hoy send me some pictures of Indian Creek. I thought that you would enjoy them so here you go.
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April 16, 2007 14:33 - Top 10 things to Bring on Your Climbing and Camping Trip
Top 10 things to bring on your climbing and camping trip
I decided to create this little list because I have been on too many trips where people have forgotten some very essential things.
A Tent
Sleeping Bag (make sure that it is warm enough I have seen people be very cold in a 40+ degree sleeping bag in 20 degree weather)
Sleeping Pad (Essential for less than flat terrain and will keep you a lot warmer and much more comfortable)
Headlamp
Climbing Gear (This should be the first thing that you double check before you leave for your trip)
Water or Water treatment (Be sure that you make sure beforehand if the water is drinkable or if you need to bring water treatment)
Food and Stove (You need to bring food that will nourish your body candy and chips won't cut it)
Warm clothes (Check the weather and always prepare for the worst, keep in mind layering)
First Aid Kit (You never know when you are going to need this baby, it should never leave your pack)
Topos/Guidebooks (Should go without saying but be sure to be approriate guidebooks or topos of the climbing area)
These in my opinion are the top 10 things that you need for your climbing trip. Some additional things that are very helpful are extra socks, approach shoes, a towel if there are showers or river, toiletries, knife, crazy creek or chair, paper towels, a change of clean clothes for the ride home, finger nail clippers, credit card for emergencies, and some good friends to have a great time.
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April 19, 2007 11:24 - Bouldering Videos of Woods, Robinson, Pringle, Sierzant, Trailer
Here are some great videos of this past year's Triple Crown Event at Horse Pens 40. This footage was shot by Wes Powell.
Part 1
Part 2
Let me know what you think of them by leaving a comment below.
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April 21, 2007 10:44 - Have You Joined?
Have you joined the Discover Climbing Newsletter?
If not, please subscribe to the monthly Discover Climbing Newsletter now.
It lets you know each month about all the new information we have added, including some great new stories, favorite spots to go climbing, video of the month, and insider secrets from other climbers.
And as a FREE GIFT I'll give you a copy of our new ebook Mastering the Rock your comprehensive guide to rock climbing.
The next issue comes out next week so be sure to sign up.
Ryan
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April 22, 2007 18:57 - 8a+, El Cau, Siurana Video
Found this cool video of Oscar Jiminez climbing the super crimpy, super steep El Cau at Siurana.
Most people go to Siurana to climb it's amazing routes however there is a load of super steep bouldering and very good bouldering to be had there too!
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April 23, 2007 09:43 - Tips From the Pros Video 1
This issue of tips from the pros is by Jared Roth. It is all about getting super strong on crimps.
Enjoy the video
Summary:
Dead Hang edges with one hand
Utilize the power you already have
Try to do the absurd
Climbing boulder problems with crimps on them
Tommorrow be ready for tips from the pros 2.
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April 24, 2007 10:49 - How to Develop Power for Steep Walls
Malcolm Smith shows you how to develop power and strength by doing long moves with bad footholds, staying open by not twisting or backstepping.
I hope that you enjoy this video and put it to practice.
Ryan
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April 26, 2007 11:08 - Mental Training by Jason Kehl
Mental Training is a key aspect of your climbing. Have you beat the mind games yet? I know I haven't follow some of Jason Kehl's advice and you just might.
Ryan
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April 27, 2007 13:12 - The Art of Dyno's
Check out this video of Mike Auldridge teaching you dynos 101.
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