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Climbing News Blog

Rock Climbing For Life : Climbing News Home : May 2007
May 1, 2007 17:59 - Tips from the Pros Video 5

I hope that you all are enjoying the tips from the pros series.

This tip is about preparing before you climb. It is done by Joel Brady and is absolutely histarical.

Be sure to check it out.

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May 3, 2007 22:10 - Dirty South Film Fest

Do you live in or around Atlanta?

If so, you need to check out the Dirty South Film Fest.

Here are the details:

Wallcrawler rock club intown Atlanta

Friday, May 18th starts at 7pm and ends late.

Homegrown climbing films, BBQ, and Brews

This event will be a fundraiser for the acces fund and local climbing.

Check out seclimbers for more info.

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May 4, 2007 09:57 - La Rambla 5.15a Redpointed Again

Germany’s Andreas Bindhammer has repeated La Rambla (9a+/5.15a) at Siurana, Spain.

Bindhammer has been known for his great redpointing abilities. On May 2 after three weeks of work Bindhammer sent La Rambla.

Edu Marín snagged the second ascent of La Rambla in late November 2006, and Chris Sharma got the redpoint a day later.

It will be interesting to see who sends it next.

Source: climbing.com

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May 5, 2007 11:08 - Lauren Lee on Power and Balance

Lauren Lee is a very strong climber. In this video she talks about developing power and balance.

Don't miss this one.

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May 6, 2007 09:12 - Bouldering World Cup Finalists and Final Results

The fourth leg of the bouldering world cup is taking place this weekend in La Reunion Island.

Here is a list of the finalists for both the men's and women's divisions.

Finalists

Men


  • Andrew Earl GBR
  • Kilian Fischhuber AUT
  • Lucas Preti ITA
  • Jerome Meyer FRA
  • Christian Core ITA
  • Daniel Dulac FRA

Women


  • Juliette Danion FRA
  • Silivie Rayfova CZE
  • Maud Ansade FRA
  • Chloé Graftiaux BEL
  • Anne-Laure FRA
  • Anne-Louise FRA

Women's Final Results


  • Juliette DANION FRA
  • Chlo GRAFTIAUX BEL
  • Silvie RAJFOVA CZE
  • Anne Laure CHEVRIER FRA
  • Maud ANSADE FRA
  • Anne HOARAU FRA

Men's Final Results


  • Andrew Earl GBR
  • Jrme Myer FRA
  • Daniel Du Lac FRA
  • Kilian Fischhuber AUT
  • Luca Preti ITA
  • Christian Core

Source: Bouldering World Cup Official Website

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May 7, 2007 08:45 - Macleod Puts Up New 8c+

Dave Macleod has put a new steep 8c+ in the Anvil that he calls Metalcore.

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May 10, 2007 09:06 - Mental Training by Jerry Moffat

Mental training - how to psych yourself before a hard problem by Jerry Moffat.

In this video training Jerry covers 4 main points.

  1. Visualize the whole problem to the top

  2. Relax the whole body

  3. Be totally accurate

  4. Enjoy it


I think that this video is fantastic for every climber, but more specifically can really help beginning climbers get a handle on the ideas of mental training.



Also be sure to read this article on the Power of Visualization.

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May 14, 2007 22:35 - How to Climb Strong on Slopers

In this video Steven Jeffery teaches how to climb well on slopers.

Training yourself to climb well on slopers takes time, but is worth it.

Enjoy the video

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May 15, 2007 09:08 - New River Rendezvous May 18-20

The 5th Annual New River Rendezvous is May 18-20.

WHAT IS THE RENDEZVOUS ALL ABOUT?

The Rendezvous is a fun and friendly three-day celebration of climbers, climbing and the New River Gorge. Gather with friends, relax, compete, play, laugh and climb here in the laid back atmosphere of Southern West Virginia--America's best kept secret! The program includes:

* Dessertapalooza
* Slide shows
* Climbing and Bouldering Comps
* Dinner
* Dyno Comp
* Sumo Pad Wrestling
* Slacklining
* Dance Party
* Midnight Snack
* Pancake Breakfast
* Clinics galore
* No Registration required
* Camping at Burnwood--the best event venue ever!

REMEMBER! This is an entirely NON-COMMERCIAL event we aren’t selling you anything. Due to the generosity of our sponsors, we are able to offer almost everything to you free! That leaves you free to make a donation that reflects the value you place on what you have received. Get it?

OUR EVENT PHILOSOPHY:

We have structured this event for max participation. Obviously, we want you to show up, but that ain’t enough. We are convinced you’ll have even more fun if you jump in with both feet. Sign up for a clinic, sumo wrestle, dominate the dyno comp! So what if you aren’t some hardbody, high number rad climber compete anyway! Our Climbing Comp has a Top Rope division, for crying out loud! Compete and you will climb better. We guarantee it.

For more information check out newriverrendezvous.org

source: newriverrendezvous.org


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May 16, 2007 10:21 - Summit Roxx Climbing Till You Drop

Summit ROXX - Climb Till You Drop!

When and Where?

20 May 2007 @ The Summit Climbing Gym

Summit ROXX returns this year with a slight twist to the successful competition format in 2006. The competition format will be
similar to last year, where the emphasis is on "FUN" and "STRATEGY".

Offering RM 10,000 worth of cash and prizes, this year's competition promises to be an exciting affair for all.

The Format

There will be 6 categories and 2 time slots where climbers will be able to get points.

The 6 categories are:

» Top Rope Open Men & Women
» Bouldering Open Men & Women
» Combined (Top Rope + Bouldering) Open Men & Women

source: nomadadventure.com

More info: http://www.nomadadventure.com

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May 16, 2007 10:25 - Top of Teewinot

Here is a cool rock climbing photo of my friend Thomas. He is on the top to Teewinot in the Grand Tetons.

Looks a little bit sketch up there to me.

Technorati Profile

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May 17, 2007 23:39 - Russian Parkour

This video is different from regular climbing but is definitely crazy. I saw this video today and thought that you would really enjoy it.

So here we go:

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May 21, 2007 22:37 - Pro Tips Series

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to let you know that the Pro Tips series is no longer available.

For whatever reason the videos were taken off of youtube. If you didn't get
to see them I am sorry they were great videos.

I did write brief notes on them so be sure to look through the May archives.

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May 21, 2007 22:39 - Rock Climbing Photo of the Month

As the month starts to wind down we are getting ready to chose our next rock climbing photo of the month.

If you have not already check out the photo of the month page be sure to do so. Also, make sure you submit your rock climbing photos to the photo of the month contest.


Technorati tags: , , ,

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May 22, 2007 16:19 - Angie Payne Sends Castaway in Poudre Canyon

Definitely check out this video of Angie Payne as she sends Castaway V11 in Poudre Canyon.

Tags: , , ,

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May 23, 2007 08:40 - How Important is Community

Last night I went in to the climbing gym for a rather quick climbing session.

It was during this session that I realized how much I love our climbing gym. You see the Tallahassee Rock Gym is
definitely not the biggest climbing gym, the best climbing gym, we don't have air conditioning or heat, but what we
do have is the best community I have seen.

I can't get over all of the people at our gym. In my opinion one of the most important aspects of a gym are the people
who climb there. I have been to a gym before were the people are all assholes and let me tell that just doesn't make
me want to climb one bit.

On the other hand if you have a gym that breeds a positive atmosphere of community your climbing experience can be
much improve.

So what is great about Tallahassee Rock Gym we're family baby.

Tags: , ,

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May 23, 2007 08:58 - ATS Outdoor Adventure Film Festival

Join us for the Festival in the Park

When
5.26.07

The ATS Outdoor Adventure Film Festival celebrates the best that adventure has to offer. Spend a day with us as we learn new techniques,
explore new technologies, watch the best adventure films of the year, and find your next adventure in the process.

* Earth First! The only solar-powered adventure festival on the planet!
* Climbing Wall! Provided by UCR Outdoor Excursions!
* Clinics from World Class athletes! Canyoneering, Rock Climbing, & Kayaking!
* The best Adventure Films of the year!
* New hybrid technologies on display! Come see the famous Greascar!
* Outdoor & National Organizations booths! Sierra Club, AHS, and more!

source: atsfilmfest.com

Find out More

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May 24, 2007 09:02 - 15% Off at Backcountry

I know all of us at heart are obsessed by and love climbing and outdoor gear.

Whether it be shoes, fleeces, jackets, kayaks, rope, or whatever you like you need to check out this deal.

Backcountry is doing a special discount where you can get 15% off (some restriction do apply) on their website.

15% Off Discount Code at Backcountry.com- 1L3-1-63VLV- Expires 5/30/2007 *Some Restrictions Apply

Be sure to take full advantage of this offer as it expires on May 30th.

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May 25, 2007 12:40 - Auer Free Soloed 'The Fish' 33 pitches

Austrian Hansjörg Auer has free-soloed the legendary route 'The Fish' on the South Face of the Marmolada in Italy, completing the 900-meter
5.12c in just under three hours.

The 33-pitch Via Attraverso il Pesce (aka The Fish) was established in 1981 and is famed for its serious, sustained free climbing on massive slabs
of limestone.

Auer, 23, had climbed it in late 2004 with a partner, but did not free-climb all the pitches during that ascent.

On April 28 this spring, he rappelled in from the top to inspect the crux pitches, spending about five hours on the route. At 9 a.m. the next day he started climbing, wearing only his clothes, climbing shoes, chalk bag, and helmet; he did not bring a rope. Auer tagged the top at 11:55 a.m.

Pretty crazy if you ask me, but you can read a good interview here.

source: climbing.com, planetmountain.com

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May 25, 2007 12:57 - La Rambla Videos

La Rambla has been seeing a lot of attention lately.

I decided to put up a few videos of some of the ascents I hope that you enjoy.

Chris Sharma redpointing La Rambla 9a+

Ramon Julian redpointing La Rambla

Tags: , , ,

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May 29, 2007 11:46 - Teva Mountain Games

The 2007 Teva Mountain Games returns to Vail, Colorado May 30 - June 3, 2007. Professional and amateur athletes will converge upon the mountains and rivers of Vail to compete in six sports and ten disciplines.

Be sure to check it out.

Events Schedule

Tuesday, May 29th

--At the Avon Whitewater Park

5:00pm East vs. West Amateur Kayak Freestyle Qualifier

5:00pm Registration for the GNC® Ultimate Mountain Challenge Closes

7:30pm East vs. West Awards and After-Party at Finnegan's Wake in Avon

WEDNESDAY, MAY 30TH

--at Dowd Chute

7:30am Registration opens for Dowd Chute races

9:30am Raft PaddleCross Time Trials

10:15am Kayak PaddleCross Time Trials

12:30pm Raft PaddleCross Semi-Finals

1:00pm Kayak PaddleCross Semi-Finals

2:00pm Raft PaddleCross Finals

2:15pm Kayak PaddleCross Finals

3:30pm PaddleCross Awards and After-Party at the Saloon in Minturn

THURSDAY, MAY 31ST

--at Homestake Creek

8:00am Registration open for Dagger® Steep Creek Championship

8:30am Dagger® Steep Creek Championship - Practice

9:30am Dagger® Steep Creek Championship - Course Closed

10:00am Dagger® Steep Creek Championship

1:00pm Dagger® Steep Creek Championship Awards and After-Party at Mango's in Red Cliff featuring Laughing Bones

--in Vail Village

1:00pm Volkswagen® Speed Bouldering Demo

3:00pm Courses and Registration open for all events

4:00pm Kayak Pro Freestyle Practice

8:00pm Mountain Games Flix & Pix Night: Featuring the Zest® for Adventure Photo Comp and Telluride Mountainfilm on Tour at Donovan Pavilion

FRIDAY, JUNE 1ST

--in Vail Village

8:00am Registration opens for all events

9:00am Volkswagen® Men's and Women's Pro Bouldering Qualifier

11:00am Gear Town and Adventure Village open

12:00pm Volkswagen® Women's Pro Bouldering Practice

1:00pm Kayak Pro Freestyle Qualifier

1:30pm Volkswagen® Men's Pro Bouldering Practice

2:00pm Freeride Challenge Demonstrations

3:30pm Volkswagen® High School Climbing Invitational

4:00pm GNC® Ultimate Mountain Challenge: Gear Check In

7:00pm Everest Awards presented by Zest® at the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater featuring Jay Nash, Floyd Landis and live DJs

10:00pm Teva® Mountain Ball at Samana

SATURDAY, JUNE 2ND

--in Vail Village

7:00am Registration opens for all events

9:00am Volkswagen® Citizen Bouldering Comp: Session #1

Gear Town and Adventure Village Open

Down River Sprint

10:00am Kayak Pro Freestyle Semi-Finals

Freeride Challenge Qualifier

One-Fly Prelims

11:30am Kid's Mountain Bike Race

12:00pm Volkswagen® Citizen Bouldering Comp: Session #2

1:00pm One-Fly Qualifier

Nature Valley® Mountain Bike Championship: Beginner to Expert

1:30pm Freeride Challenge Finals

4:00pm Purina® Diving Dog Challenge Qualifier at Golden Peak

Nature Valley® Mountain Bike Championship: Semi-Pro to Pro

Volkswagen® Men's and Women's Pro Bouldering Finals

5:00pm Kayak Pro Freestyle Finals

6:00pm Mountain Games BBQ at the Zest® Mud Village - with DJ J Boogie

6:45pm Teva® X-1 Mud Fun Run

7:00pm Purina® Diving Dog Challenge Finals

7:30pm Freeride Slopestyle Competition

8:00pm Slopestyle Finals

8:15 pm Live performance by Banyan

SUNDAY, JUNE 3RD

--in Vail Village

7:00am Registration opens for all events

8:00am One-Fly Finals

9:00am Gear Town and Adventure Village open

Cytomax® 10k Trail Running Championship

10:00am Volkswagen® Speed Bouldering Demo

11:00am "8" Ball Kayak Sprint Qualifier

11:30am Trek® Hill Climb

12:00pm Volkswagen® Speed Bouldering Practice

1:30pm East vs. West Amateur Kayak Freestyle Finals

2:00pm Volkswagen® Speed Bouldering Qualifier

2:30pm "8" Ball Kayak Sprint Finals

3:00pm Volkswagen® Speed Bouldering Finals

3:30pm One-Fly "Weigh-In"

GNC® Ultimate Mountain Challenge Coronation Ceremony

3:31pm Volkswagen® Garage Band - The Samples - Free

Source: tevamountaingames.com

tags: ,

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May 31, 2007 09:06 - Important Site Updates

Have you seen our new photo of the month page? How about our guest author Sal Zullo's dedicated article page called 'Sal's Corner'?

We added these two pages last month and people are loving them.

You can check out the photo page here and submit your climbing pictures
here.

Be sure to check out Sal's Corner and his recent article called Take It Easy.


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