No matter who you are or how long you have been climbing at some point we all have to deal with failure.
It was this past weekend on a trip to foster falls that I had to deal with some of my own failures. You see I set out on this trip with two projects that I wanted to redpoint so bad. The first route was 'La Pistola' and the second was 'Ethnic Cleansing'.
Ok so the first day I jumped on Ethnic Cleansing and I got spit off about half way up on a dyno move. The next try I got spit off on the move right before the finish. And then over and over I kept getting spit off on the end move. I couldn't figure it out cause I could do the move easily when I was up there, but to put it all together was another story.
So it was time to leave and I only had time for one more go. I tie in and start climbing, feeling very strong I am moving up the wall with ease and grace. I am nailing every move I go to clip the last permanent draw before the anchors and the biner was upside down. To be honest that stupid biner messed up my mental game, but I pushed on. Cruised the next two moves and go to make the last move and blow off again.
It was a little amusing because everyone became so quiet it was as if something terrible just happened.
So how do you deal with failure?
That is a great question. For me I try not to look at it as a failure I just look at it as a chance for me to improve my overall climbing ability. You know this route will be my hardest redpoint to date and maybe my mental toolbox isn't ready yet, but I tell you here and now I will send that route on my next trip.
Focus on the positive. Even though I didn't send I have the route wired down now. I know every move and for the next few weeks I will be visualizing the whole route going down. Plus I sent my other project with ease.
You have to fail to succeed. The more successful in life and climbing that you are the more failures you have had. Look at any great athlete and you will see that they have had tons of failures. That being said to climb better fail more.
Finally use failure to your advantage. How you deal and react to the situations in your life shows much about your character. Use this failure as a tool to make you a better person and climber and you will still have succeeded.
Climb strong
Ryan
Share your ideas about how to deal with failure in the comments section.
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June 4, 2007 11:38 - Lesson from Thomas Mrazek on The Underground 5.14c/d
I came across this video of Thomas Mrazek climbing the Underground 5.14c/d quite a while ago. At first glance I thought it was a sweet route and definitely a sick video, but kinda brushed it off.
Well the other day I was checking out some other blogs and ran acrossed it again. After watching it a second time I noticed some different things, some things that can help me with my climbing.
If you watch him climb it as if he just floats up this insanely hard route. Here are the things that I took away from him climbing this route.
Prepare yourself for the climb
Focus on using technique not strength to climb (notice how he is always using straight arms, toe hooks, heel hooks, watch his body positioning)
Take full advantage of rest positions and only rest when necessary
Breathe and keep your cool at all time while climbing
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June 5, 2007 09:39 - Deep Water Soloing and Summersville Lake
Deep Water Soloing seems to becoming more and more popular these days. With big name climbers being seen in rock climbing dvds deep water soloing in places like Mallorca, Thailand, UK, and more.
Sharma has even named his new climbing shoe after his DWS route in Mallorca, Es Pontas.
Well some friends and I were getting pretty excited about DWS and decided to head up to West Virginia this summer to Summersville Lake.
Everything was all set to go until I came across this press release.
Effective immediately, the Huntington District U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) is banning cliff jumping/diving on all district managed recreational property.
Cliff jumping/diving is a reckless and potentially very dangerous activity that has always been strongly discouraged on USACE recreational projects. Recent water-related accidents and fatalities have prompted Huntington District to take the lead in prohibiting this activity.
Overall, there have been 69 water-related deaths in the Huntington District since 1993; there were seven deaths in 2006.
Warnings will be posted at district projects alerting users of the dangers associated with cliff jumping/diving and advising them of the ban. Warnings will be issued by park rangers explaining the dangers associated with the activity.
Failure to heed warnings may result in citation under Title 36, which may result in a penalty of up to $5,000 or even federal imprisonment.
District lakes where the ban is now in effect include: Alum Creek, Deer Creek, Delaware, Dillon, North Branch of Kokosing and Paint Creek Lakes in Ohio; Beech Fork, Bluestone, Burnsville, East Lynn, R.D. Bailey, Summersville, and Sutton Lakes in West Virginia; Dewey, Fishtrap, Grayson, Paintsville and Yatesville Lakes in Kentucky; and John W. Flannagan in Virginia.
For more information, please contact the Public Affairs office at (304) 399-5353.
There is now a rule that you can not enter the lake from an area that is more than your height.
This kinda sucks as we will now need to find somewhere else to Deep Water Solo, I guess Spain it is.
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June 7, 2007 14:29 - All Free Rope Solo of El Cap
Canadian Stéphane Perron capped a remarkable string of solo ascents in Yosemite Valley with an all-free rope solo of Free Rider (37 pitches, 5.12d) on El Capitan.
Perron spent six nights on the route, leading all but three of the pitches without any falls. After falling on each of those three pitches, he finished the lead, cleaned the gear on rappel, and then sent the pitch free on his second go. Perron had previously climbed the bottom half of the route (shared with the Salathé Wall), but he was onsighting from the top of the Ear (pitch 18) to the summit.
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June 7, 2007 15:26 - Letting Go
I am came across this post on Scott Gross's rock climbing blog and thought that you would really enjoy it.
My years of climbing experience have endowed me with the ability to simplifiy and oftentimes overcome many of my life's challenges. I'm sure everyone who reads this has at least once, found some correlation between the emotional crusades of climbing and our "real life" encounters. So...here I go.
Some problems just aren't for you. Why waste your time fighting for something that might just spit you off endlessly; when around the other side, there's another challenge that may evolve to be much more intrinsically fulfilling? Sometimes, you have to let go and fall into that difficult conclusion. However, never forget the investments you've made as well as the gains you've seen throughout your attempts.
When you've put your heart into something, letting go seems so incredibly difficult. Is it only after you've seen or perhaps attempted that "amazing" thing around the corner, that accepting failure becomes straightforward? Or, do you wither away in a seemingly incessant pursuit of the unattainable? By no means am I saying just give up and take the easy way. Rather, it seems you come to understand that somehow by letting go you are actually stronger, and therefore much more prepared for that "amazing" thing around the corner.
Basically, one must learn to recognize when it's time to move on, and hopefully discover the bliss that awaits on the other side.
Just keep a smile on your face, and know when to fold 'em. See ya,
-SG
You can check out more of Scott's posts at scottygross.blogspot.com
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June 8, 2007 18:49 - McClure Does True 5.14a Onsight
I was reading a brief news bit in the most recent issue of Gripped about Steve McClure.
The article was talking about McClure's most recent onsight of a 5.14a at Tarredets, Spain.
I found it to be interesting because McClure did the route without first hanging the draws, he actually hung them on his way up the route. The article suggests that this might be the first time that a 5.14 has been onsighted without prehanging draws.
Few climbers would debate a send with the draws already hung (called a pink point), but I have to admit most hard routes I lead the draws are prehung..
So Mr. McClure I congratulate you on your recent onsight. Nice send!
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June 10, 2007 20:12 - Breaking Free of the Numbers
I was reading this interview in Gripped magazine today and Meghan Jones asked Josune Bereziartu the question: Do you think climbing has changed?
Bereziartu said: Yes. Younger people are really focused on numbers or competing. I respect that, because I was the same way when I was younger, but I think now many young people come from the gym and haven’t experienced the romance of the mountains.
I don’t mean that years ago we were better than today, it is just different.
Her response reminded me of my past trip to Tennessee where I met a strong young climber. He in my opinion has not experienced the romance of the mountains as Bereziartu says.
This young man at the moment was trying a manufactured linked up route. Although everyone has their own feelings on climbing ethics I find climbing manufactured routes to be poor ethics.
Later that day I am getting ready for an onsight attempt and this young man comes up to me and asks me if I want the beta for the route. I give him a smirk say that that is ok, but I am giving it an onsight attempt. It is as if he doesn’t understand the reasons I was climbing the route. For me it specifically isn’t so that I can say I climbed so and so route, but it is much more than that.
I am sorry to be ranting but I just feel that he and his climbing partner were just young and didn’t look at climbing as experiencing the romance of the mountains. While I was on this route I could hear him and his partner two or three routes over dropping more f-bombs than I thought possible. Not too mention the fact that he told his partner every single move all the way up the route.
What fun is that? Do you really climb to that beta spray all the time, I would kill myself.
So what is the moral of this article? Let’s be honest it is more of a rant, but we can draw a few things from it.
Respect other climbers at the crag and define your climbing ethics. Learn to experience climbing for what it is and enjoy it (it is more than numbers). Finally if you are a young climber remember that you are young and you should be having a blast. Climbing is one of the best things in the world and don’t ruin it for yourself.
Ryan
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June 11, 2007 18:18 - Site Updates
Hey everyone,
I just wanted to let you all know about a site I found on the net. You can get some great gear deals on it. The site is Gear Trade be sure to read the descriptions carefully some gear is used.
Also, wanted to let you know that I just added to gear reviews and will be adding more shortly.
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June 12, 2007 20:48 - Teva Mountain Games
Daniel Woods had done it again foks. He ha won his third consecutive victory at the annual Teva Mountain Games bouldering comp in Vail, Colorado, and Alex Puccio won her second title in a row. The Teva games are an annual extravaganza of so-called climate sports, including white-water paddling, trail running, mountain biking, and climbing.
Organizers said this year’s games drew 30,000 athletes and spectators.
Ten invited athletes and five climbers from the qualification rounds competed in the men’s and women’s pro bouldering comps. The finals were elimination-style, with each of the three problems narrowing the field. Only three climbers were supposed to move on to the third problem, but four men and five women made the final round because of ties. Competitors had practiced the problems the day before, and the hardest men’s problem was tweaked to make it a bit easier after Woods told the route-setters, No way. In the end, Woods did the first two problems first-try but still couldn’t control a vicious swing near the top of the final boulder.
Puccio, meanwhile, completed all three women’s problems first-try, closely followed by Paige Claassen. Woods and Puccio, both 17, took home $2,500 apiece for their efforts.
The Teva games also featured speed bouldering, citizens’ comps, and a high school team contest. At Friday night’s Everest Awards dinner, Chris Sharma and Angie Payne were named male and female sport climbers and boulderers of the year.
Results Pro Bouldering June 2, 2007
Men
1. Daniel Woods 2. Paul Robinson 3. Rob D’Anastasio 4. Charles Fryberger 5. Sean McColl 6. Ryan Olson 7. Nick Sherman 8. Ty Landman 9. Ethan Pringle 10. Brian Antheunisse
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June 13, 2007 09:49 - Climbing News Update
Kairn.com reports that Charlotte Durif made the first ascent of 'Mick et le secret de la chambre noire', a 75 meter long 8c that she climbed during her first try. She is now one of only 15 or so women to climbing the confirmed grade 8c.
On saturday the 9th of june Yuji Hirayama climbed his second 8c onsight. He onsighted 'Pata Negra' a 40 meter long route at Rodellar, Spain. His first onsighted 8c was 'White Zombie' at Baltzola, Spain.
Manu Romain of team beal has climbed his first 8c and only after 5 or 6 tries. The route is called 'le cadre' and is located in Ceuse France. Romain says that he will find a more challenging project next time.
Congrats to these climbers as these are both great accomplishments.
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June 18, 2007 21:02 - Access Fund Boulder Project Video Contest
Sorry for such a delay in posts but I have been out of town on a rock climbing trip. I will be posting shortly on that trip but for know check out this Access Fund Video Contest.
First check out this video with Chris Sharma as part of Access Fund's Boulder Project.
Like what you see? Want to see your own video next to this BigUp Production? Well the Access Fund and YourClimbing.com want you to produce your own video promoting the Boulder Project!
Grab a friend (or a stranger) and your video camera, and come up with a short video to promote the ideals of the Boulder Project -- which are summed up in this phrase: "Climbers, the environment, and access are all connected."
Post the video at YourClimbing.com, and whoever submits the best flick by July 31st will win both an Osprey Aether 60 pack (valued at $219), and an Osprey Daylite pack ($50). (As well as the riches and fame beyond imagination that accompany any film award.)
What's the Boulder Project?
Here's the description from the Access Fund website:
The Boulder Project is a community of climbers that give a S#!@t about what happens to our climbing areas. Practicing low impact climbing and encouraging others to do the same is how we get it done, 'cause that's the only way to be assured that we always have places to climb.
The Boulder Project encourages climbers to be proactive in maintaining access to their crags, and it provides essential information for the transition from indoors to outdoors and frontcountry to backcountry which will keep us all climbing.
Video tips
Want to create an award-winning short video and win those Osprey packs? Here are some suggestions:
Keep it short. The Sharma video is only 30 seconds. Ideally, keep yours between 30 and 60 seconds.
Be creative! You know that will help win over the judges.
Use the Sharma video as either a guide or a source for mocking!
Be funny or be serious. ... But get the message across, that it's up to climbers to act responsibly in order to preserve and retain access to bouldering areas.
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June 20, 2007 09:57 - Rock Climbing in Poudre Canyon, Colorado
Yesterday after a nice day of traveling I finally arrived in Ft. Collins Colorado.
I was so stoked about the rock climbing out here we decided to head up to Poudre Canyon right away. We picked up
a few of my friends and rolled out to the beautiful 420 boulders. Be sure to check out the rock climbing pics that we took
up at the canyon.
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June 24, 2007 17:17 - Rock Climbing at Boulder Canyon
Last Friday we went down to Boulder to do some sport climbing down in the Boulder Canyon.
I was pretty excited about it since I have never been down to Boulder and the Sport Park was supposed to have
some fantasic sport routes.
After about an hour drive we arrived and were doing a river crossing. We warmed up on a 9 and a 10 and then some
clouds started to roll in and we got rain on for a little. While it rained we still decided to climb and jump on a 12b/c that
was really overhanging and for the most part was dry.
After about an hour the rain had stopped and we had a beautiful day of sunshine.
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June 24, 2007 17:40 - Taking a rest day in Fort Collins
Today I decided that after 4 days of climbing it was time for a rest day.
So we decided to head in to Old Town in Fort Collins and hit up the Brew Fest.
Brew Fest is a big festival that Fort Collins holds every year where are a lot of microbreweries from all over Colorado
come and sample out there beers.
It was nice to finally take a break from climbing and enjoy the sunshine of Colorado and the beers they are known for.
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June 26, 2007 14:34 - Bouldering at Carter Lake
Yesterday Nate and I went down to Carter Lake for a little late day bouldering session.
This was my first time down to Carter Lake so I was pretty excited. The weather looked a
little grim, but it ended up being a beautiful day with great views and perfect temperature.
We started the day by climbing some very classic boulder problems like The Seam, Seam 2,
Undercling, and Kahuna Roof.
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June 28, 2007 16:48 - Classic Multi-Pitch Climbing at Elodorado Canyon
Went to Eldorado Canyon for the first time yesterday to do some multi-pitch climbing with my friend Bryan.
I was pretty excited because it was going to be my first trad multi-pitch experience. I have done two other multi-pitch climbs before, but those were both sport climbs.
Not too mention the fact that I was going to Eldo which I have just heard so much about. To say the least it lived up to my expectations and much more.
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June 30, 2007 21:26 - Video of Daniel Woods on Jade
On June 19th Daniel Woods sent the Green 45 Project. Big Up Productions now has the video of the send on their website so you should definitely check it out.
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