I found this article on Lisa Rands website and thought you would enjoy it. If you like this article be sure to check out LisaRands.com.Q: I entered my first bouldering competition this summer at a local gym. I was so nervous that I choked on the opening moves of all but the easiest of problems. How do I relax?
A: I know exactly where you're coming from. I can boast that I am the only competitor nervous enough to have accidentally eliminated a starting hold in a professional bouldering comp -- and failed on the very first move. On the other hand, that experience taught me a lot. Learning to win has meant changing my mental approach, even in my workout sessions.
First, develop your brainpower while you're training. In the past, when I failed to complete a boulder problem -- even just a training route at my local gym -- I wanted to throttle the course-setter. However, this only diverted my attention away from the task and decreased my chance of success. The key to success -- and, ultimately, enjoying the long hours of training -- is to be as positive and confident during your workouts as you hope to be during the competition.
Secondly, when competing (or trying to flash any boulder problem), spend a moment below the route visualizing success. It helps me to relax to talk myself through the sequences (do this in your head or you might get some strange looks), and to visualize myself doing the moves. Sometimes, when I cannot "see" a sequence right away, I start to panic. Now I tell myself to stay calm, it's no big deal. After a moment the fear gives way to a good focus.
My third suggestion is to put all your fears and past failures where they belong -- in the past. Learn to focus calmly, even through mishaps. I used this strategy mid-way through the July 27 super-final at L'Argentiere, France. I choked on the first problem, a slab -- I lost my balance and fell off, then managed to shake my way to the top the second time, just before the three-minute time limit expired. Rather than berate myself for almost blowing it, I told myself to stay calm, forget about problem one, and start focusing on problems two and three. It worked -- I flashed both of the problems and was the only girl to complete them.
The last and biggest step you can take is to learn to enjoy the challenge and fun of a competition. Ultimately, whatever you enjoy you will do well at. I have found that a positive attitude -- even through periods of self-doubt -- has helped me not only in competitions, but also when projecting a boulder problem or sport route at my local crag.
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