by Aygun Aydin
On February 21, 2003, Timothy Garland (24) climbed Magic Light in the Overboard Area of Smith Rock State Park. Magic Light is a bolted route rated 5.12b, two stars, by Alan Watts in his Climber’s Guide to Smith Rock.
The lower portion is rated 5.11a and is often climbed, but the upper portion contains the real difficulties and is less frequently climbed according to Watts.
Tim easily reached the top anchors and was lowered off. He knew the rope was short and expected to be stopped to reset the top rope. Instead, he was lowered off the end of the top rope belay, falling a reported 75 to 100 feet sustaining a broken back, ribs and sternum and internal injuries according to Oregon State Park records. He was air lifted to St. Charles Hospital in Bend.
This is a reminder for all climbers to tie an overhand knot in the end of your rope.
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