Bouldering Technique Your Key to Being a Better Boulderer

Do you want to become a better boulderer?

Of course who doesn't...

So what do you need to do?

Work on your bouldering technique and modify your training routine for the specifics of bouldering.

Bouldering in its own right is a very powerful form of climbing.

Which makes proper stretching and warm up extremely important for boulders. Personally I have noticed that once I have properly warmed up and stretched I can climb at least 1-2 whole grades harder!

Not bad...for taking the time to warm up and stretch properly.

Bouldering Technique

First and foremost the Preview

Looking at and studying the boulder problem before starting to climb is very important. Route finding is simple when bouldering and this technique is not used as much as it should be.

The whole boulder problem is visible and usually a climber can touch and feel most of the holds. This is your opportunity to figure out the best sequence, hand and feet placements, and where the crux is.

Once you have the best sequence vividly visualize yourself completely climbing the route over and over.

For more on this read the power of visualization article

What kind of routine should you use?

That is up to you, but here is what I do right before I get up on a problem.

• Chalk up

• Look at the route and review my sequence

• Close my eyes and see myself completing the route doing every move easily and with grace

• Prepare to start the route by telling myself I can do this

• Affirm myself while I climb the route with the affirmation ‘I am strong’

Modify this routine to fit your needs. The key here is to do it consistently when you climb....to some this might sound strange, but when you climb with focus and intention I guarantee you will climb better.

Bouldering Technique and Moves

Many times the different forms of hooking can be used to give you a third arm.

A third arm?

Not really but by utilizing a heel hook for example you can take weight off of one arm and redistribute it to your leg. This allows you to release one arm in order to reach a different hold. A very useful and powerful move.

Drop knees do almost the same thing but allow you to reach something that was out of reach by compressing your body into the wall and bending your knee inward which allows you to reach the hold you want.

Toe hooks allow you to take some weight off of your arms in order to move a hand to a new hold. Take note that toe hook are usually constricted to being used on roofs and arętes alone.

Crossing through is a technique that is lost when someone loves to match or is strong enough so they try and muscle through a move.

Bad idea! Remember that technique is your best asset in advancing your climbing ability. Be strict on yourself to practice excellent rock climbing technique.

Finally...bouldering lines are almost always more consistent than actual rope routes.

What does this mean for you?

A few things because bouldering requires more strength and power then roped climbing you will want to modify your training routine so that you gain the power and strength boulders need.