Mental Aspects of Leading Sport Routes

I’ve read that you suggest that a lead climber focus on the climb and not about how far above the last bolt that they are.

Where do you draw the line? On a slab or vertical route falling likely will result in hitting rock to some degree.

Is your point to decide if the route is doable and then to just go for it once that decision is made or do you mean something else?

I don’t worry too much about falling once I decide to do a route but when I’m at a move where I feel it’s very likely I will fall I do have to consider it more than if I was on toprope. How do you suggest one approach this dilemma? Are you saying falling is no big deal?


Whenever you climb on rope or not falling always has to be considered. What I am saying though is when you climb you need to dwell on falling. You must understand that you can fall especially if a move or sequence is difficult for you. There is a difference though in letting that idea of falling be something that holds you back from climbing your best and just recognizing it and preparing for it.

What I suggest is that while you climb you just commit to it and don’t be afraid of falling. If you think you are going to fall push forward if it is safe and if you do fall prepare you body for an appropriate fall.

-the Climbing expert

Related posts:

  1. Cleaning Sport Routes
  2. Climbing on Over Hangs
  3. Belayer and Climber Communication
  4. Beginner’s Mistake
  5. Deep Water Soloing Article

This entry was posted on Sunday, September 5th, 2010 at and is filed under Ask the Climbing Expert. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

Leave a Reply

XHTML: You can use these tags: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>