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Red River Gorge Rock ClimbingWelcome to the Red River Gorge Rock Climbing section. If you have been to the Red recently and know of any changes or updates please let us know so that we can update everyone. The Red River Gorge is a canyon system on the Red River in east-central Kentucky. The Red features an abundance of high sandstone cliffs, rock shelters, waterfalls, and natural bridges. Interesting fact There are more than 100 natural sandstone arches in the Red River Gorge Geological Area. You are not allowed to climb on these arches but they are beautiful. Red River Gorge Rock Climbing
Kentucky climbing is popular because of the Red. Red River Gorge rock climbing consists of trad, sport, and bouldering with enough routes to last you a lifetime. Most of the walls are steep and featured with series of open handed edges, pockets and slopers. The sandstone is super friendly on the hands and definitely made to be climbed. This is one of the most popular areas on the East Coast and for good reasons.
The sport routes range from beginner all the way up to 5.14. The Red is known to have mostly climbs 5.10 and above. Every year people travel from all over the world to climb on the Red's long and overhanging sandstone routes. A note to climbers be sure to bring a 60 Meter rope and at least 12 quickdraws some routes you need up to 18 draws. Trad Climbing The Red is home to over 600 trad routes. You'll need plenty of medium and large pro with some small stuff. You can leave your micro pro at home. Bouldering Red River Gorge rock climbing isn't known for bouldering, but the bouldering areas are becoming more and more developed. There are some very good boulder problems now and as time goes on there will be even more. You'll want to pick up a guidebook for the bouldering as to date there are more than 200 boulder problems. You can get the most popular Red River Gorge Guidebook at REI Climbing
When to Climb at the Red
Summer
Climbing during the summer months in the Southeast is usually not the best idea. The summer is not an ideal time because it is typically to hot to climb, but that hasn't stopped us in the past and I'm sure it won't in the future. Just climb in the early morning and seek shaded routes in the afternoon. Just a note during the summer the insects can get a little crazy. Autumn The autumn is not the best time to climb either, but it is definitely better than summer. The problem here is that it's still pretty hot and there is a good amount of rain. Winter Climbing during the winter months is great if you can handle a little cold. The temperature usually rests between 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. It can be a little cold for some climbers, but nonetheless the cold is better than the heat. These temps allow for some great friction on the rock. Spring The spring months offer the best climbing conditions. The temperature is mild making climbing possible almost every day. Some of the climbing areas: Military Wall Left Flank Funk Rock City Phantasia Muir Valley Roadside Crag The Motherload Oil Crack Crag Bob Marley Crag Long Wall Emerald City Global Village Drive By Crag Note Torrent Falls now closed to the public. Follow this link to read my blog post about the closing
Torrent Falls Closure
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