self-belay

by Joe Gaber
(Hua Hin, Thailand (originally from Bend, OR)

I am currently training and planning a rope-solo climb of the nose. I've read a lot about self-belay devices and I'm still debating the best choice.

I started climbing in the mid-70's when there was the prusik knot ;-). I currently use a grigri when being belayed by a partner and have tried using it for self-belay. Without the modifications that I read about on the net, the grigri doesn't seem to be a good choice. I've read about the other self-locking belay devices and all have issues with the grigri seeming to be the most widely accepted. Then I started reading about the Wren silent partner. The reviews are great and the users seem to be very partial to it; however, I haven't seen it used much in the field compared to other methods including the grigri.

Do you have any suggestions, resources, or experience to impart on this old-school, prusik with figure-8 backup belayed, less than ideal setup using climber?

Thx,

Joe

Answer: Hey Joe, that is a great question and it comes down to preference. The only devices I have used to rope solo is the petzl grigri or the trango cinch.

The grigri doesn't work very well but can get the job done. I prefer the cinch as it feeds a lot better.

Hope that can help you.

-the climbing expert