Smith Rock State Park is 651 acres located in central Oregon's high desert plateau near the town of Terrebonne, which is located at about 3000 feet in elevation.
Smith Rock is generally considered the birthplace of modern American sport climbing, and is host to many climbing routes that are considered cutting-edge even by today's standards.
Including "Just Do It 5.14c" which one of Americas hardest lines.
Many of the greats like Alan Watts and the late
Todd Skinner
, climbed at this sport climbing Mecca. The park contains thousands of routes including over 1000 bolted lines. Not too mention there is some Aid, and tons of great trad routes.
The park is open year round and at present the day use is $3.00 a day or a $25.00 for a year pass.
Note: Open fires prohibited at all times. There is a designated place for cooking with propane and white gas stoves. Cooking is not allowed anywhere else in the park. Gas lanterns are also prohibited. Smoking is only allowed in vehicles.
When to Climb
People come to climb year-round, but summer temperaturescan reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and in the dead of winter the thermometer stays close to the freezing mark during the day.
Most ideal times to climbSpring and fall are definitely the most popular climbing months.
Climbing Areas
Monkey Face
Pleasure Palace
Mesa Verde Wall
Spiderman Buttress
Christian Brothers - West
Smith Rock Group - West
Smith Rock Group - East
Christian Brothers - East
Dihedrals
Morning Glory Wall
Cocaine Gully
Agro Gully
Wooden Ships
Picnic Lunch Wall
Red Wall
Red Ryder Buttress
Little Three Fingered Jack
Monument
Staender Ridge
Student Wall
Wombat
Koala Rock
Brogan Spire Area
Kangaroo
Check out this 1986 trailer for a DVD featuring Alan Watts, J.B. Tribout, Todd Skinner, Beth Wald and many others. I wish I had some of those tights, look out they might make a come back. Anyways the trailer shows you the rock quality and some of the best lines to climb there.