Smith Rock

smith rock, climbing smith rock, smith rocks climbing, monkey face

Smith Rock State Park is 651 acres located in central Oregon’s high desert plateau near the town of Terrebonne, which is located at about 3000 feet in elevation.

Smith Rock is generally considered the birthplace of modern American sport climbing, and is host to many climbing routes that are considered cutting-edge even by today’s standards.

Including “Just Do It 5.14c” which one of Americas hardest lines.

Many of the greats like Alan Watts and the late Todd Skinner , climbed at this sport climbing Mecca. The park contains thousands of routes including over 1000 bolted lines. Not too mention there is some Aid, and tons of great trad routes.

The park is open year round and at present the day use is $3.00 a day or a $25.00 for a year pass.

Note: Open fires prohibited at all times. There is a designated place for cooking with propane and white gas stoves. Cooking is not allowed anywhere else in the park. Gas lanterns are also prohibited. Smoking is only allowed in vehicles.

When to Climb

People come to climb year-round, but summer temperatures can reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and in the dead of winter the thermometer stays close to the freezing mark during the day.

Most ideal times to climbSpring and fall are definitely the most popular climbing months.

Climbing Areas

  • Monkey Face
  • Pleasure Palace
  • Mesa Verde Wall
  • Spiderman Buttress
  • Christian Brothers – West
  • Smith Rock Group – West
  • Smith Rock Group – East
  • Christian Brothers – East
  • Dihedrals
  • Morning Glory Wall
  • Cocaine Gully
  • Agro Gully
  • Wooden Ships
  • Picnic Lunch Wall
  • Red Wall
  • Red Ryder Buttress
  • Little Three Fingered Jack
  • Monument
  • Staender Ridge
  • Student Wall
  • Wombat
  • Koala Rock
  • Brogan Spire Area
  • Kangaroo

Check out this 1986 trailer for a DVD featuring Alan Watts, J.B. Tribout, Todd Skinner, Beth Wald and many others. I wish I had some of those tights, look out they might make a come back. Anyways the trailer shows you the rock quality and some of the best lines to climb there.

From this site
Go from Smith Rock back to Rock Climbing Destinations

Other Resources
Check out this online Guide

Related posts:

  1. Accident Report for Timothy Garland
  2. Rock Climbing at Foster Falls
  3. Red River Gorge Rock Climbing
  4. Malcolm Smith Developing Power
  5. Climbing Destinations

This entry was posted on Friday, September 17th, 2010 at and is filed under Climbing Destinations. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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