Strength and off season training

by Not quite right...
(Denver, CO)

Hey-

My name is Terry and I from Denver, CO. I am approaching winter and this was a disappointing season. Last December I had an interior dislocation and a torn rotater cuff in my right shoulder, then in May I took a huge top out fall off a boulder and broke my right foot in several places.

So, my season was below par. I have a fitness and yoga membership plus I am getting a climbing gym membership around the first of November(as soon as the season slows). I am searching for an excellent workout program for next spring. I go to yoga once a week and strength training 3-4 times a week. I am afraid of adding too much bulk.

What would be an excellent work out regiment for a seriously dedicated rehabilitating stone monkey?

Terry

Answer:

Hey Terry,

That is a great question and is going to depend on few things. I will give sort of a general guideline for some great training and then you can adapt that to your needs.

First off you need to plan out what you want to accomplish? Then set up a plan to accomplish that goal. For example do you want to improve your flexibility, endurance, power, finger strength, mental capabilities, etc.

Once you figure that out start to structure your program. I think it is best to train after an injury in the following format. Do a lot of yoga and stretching this is really good for you body and helps with injury recovery. Not too mention that it will improve your chances of staying injury free next season. Recommend 3 or more days a week at least.

Next with strength training do high reps of upper and lower body exercises. I like to do military presses, bench presses, bicep curls, tricep pushdowns, squats, lunges, and calve raises. Make sure you keep the reps high I prefer to do 4 sets of the exercises one day upper body one day lower body.

Workout on days that you don't climb. You can do yoga and climbing in the same day I actually prefer it. For reps I like the structure of first set 15, second set 12, third set 10, last set 15. I find this works well for me.

Hope that helps and climb on,

-the climbing expert