V Scale and comparison to Decimal Scale

by Andrew
(Boston, MA USA)

I know that many sites give a mapping between the V scale and the decimal scale. Being a new climber, I am currently working routes in the 5.6-5.8 range, with the upper end of that scale being something I can barely do.

My question is since I can easily boulder a V0 and usually a V1 (which are in the order of 5.10 equivalents), there seems to be some disconnect between this mapping. Am I understanding it wrong, am I a special case, or does it mean that I should be able to climb a 5.10a for example?

Just curious. Thanks.

Answer

Andrew, what a great question. I think a lot of beginner climbers struggle with this. There are a couple things at play here.

Yes technically speaking a 5.10 should equate to a V0/1. In my opinion though this typically doesn't hold true and here is why.

Bouldering and rope climbing are different in nature. Bouldering is much more powerful and rope climbing has more of an endurance aspect. That being said if you are a powerful climber you will naturally climb better at bouldering.

Most V0/1's are really easy even more so in a indoor gym because these are suppose to be a route that a brand new climber can do. Now I don't know many brand new climber's who can climb a 5.10. So no you are not misunderstanding anything. Just keep climbing and training and you'll see gains faster than you expected.

Hope that helps

The Climbing Expert