What Makes a Good Basic Trad Rack

by Jim
(Albuquerque NM)

I’m going to start Trad Climbing but would like to build a basic rack a little at a time (to help spread the cost). I have a fair sport rack but am unsure what needs to be added for a basic trad rack. Can you give me suggestions.

Answer

Here is what would make up a good basic trad rack.

1. Full set of stoppers/nuts/wires (BD #4-#13)

2. Cams (sizing in BD) – #.3, .4, .5, .75 (2), 1 (2), 2 (2), 3

3. At least 6 normal draws and 8-10 long draws

4. At least 4 extra biners (for rope management at belay, no more draws, etc.), 3-4 lockers

5. Two cordelletes 10-15ft and 16-22 foot

6. Prusick and nut tool

7. Gear Sling (metolius multi-loop gear sling)

Pretty self explainatory, but your set of stoppers should probably be split into to sets (easier to access) with a biner for each and each cam should be racked on a biner by itself or two to a biner.

That’s about it for a basic good rack. Doubling up on some of the nuts is good too. Once you know what you use the most, usually #4-#7.

-The Climbing Expert and Bryan V.

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