When to Switch to a More Aggressive Shoe

by Danny
(Pomona, CA)

I am currently bouldering at the v4 level and I was wondering if its about time to step up to an aggressive down turned shoe, most of the routes I do are over hanging but I don't want to look ridiculous for shoes that are out of my league?

Answer:

Good question Danny, I struggled with this a few years back. Here is what I think. If you really like to climb things that are overhanging or just love to boulder, down turned shoes can be a good fit for you.

This is what they excel at. In my opinion the best thing is to try a pair out and see how you like them. Here are a few pairs that I like:


Five Ten Dragon Rock Climing Shoe



La Sportiva Venom Climbing Shoe


Also, La Sportiva has recently come out with a new shoe specifically for bouldering called the Solution. I haven't had a chance to test it yet, but you can check it out at


La Sportiva Solution Climbing Shoe


Some final thoughts remember that you can switch to a down turned shoe whenever you want, but they are best for overhanging rock, bouldering, and are really bad at slab. I recommend that you at least be able to climb v3/4 before switching.

Also, if you boulder and rope climb you might want to consider having a pair of shoes for each.

the Climbing Expert